Concept Korea, a fashion collective, consistently melds art with fashion and this season was no exception. What always makes this show popular are the five distinct voices.
This time around, the overall theme given to the designers to toy with, was the Asian technique of “ink wash painting”. Once a brush stroke is made with this method, it cannot be undone or altered. So, it takes expertise and precision, while giving the appearance of almost just the opposite.
Doho used this by employing variations of tone on tone. Her “Antique’en” collection is based on her own beloved antique possessions, using contrasting textures to suggest a “queenly” style. But, this “queenly” look is more upscale club worthy than tea-totalling. The pop hues, metallic fabrics; the Boy George-ish makeup and the sternly pulled back-and-up hair, take the “antique” elements and, while retaining their richness, thrust them into the 21st century.
Juyoung took her urban sensibilities to Samurai heights, with ultra light-weight padding, dropped shoulders & muted hues. Long locks and mixtures of fabrics (a la a chic “Waterworld”) that look scavenged (but are anything but) give these Ressurection ‘uniforms’ a post-apocalyptic (where only the tragically hip survived) feel. Surrender, and become a city soldier with style.
Son Jung Wan (whose collection also, once again had its own separate show – see that article to follow), was inspired by contemporary artist Marc Quinn’s winter garden. Recreating the vibrancy of the flowers amidst the sparkling snow and ice, she created a romantic, feminine and slightly fantastical look.
Taking the feminine and floral muses more literally, are Steve J and Yoni P. “And the Moon Came Nearer” catches the falling the stars, saturates them with color and puts them in your pockets. Flowers, rocket ship embellishments and futuristic touches like rolled collars, jettison you into a fun-filled Fall/Winter.
And last, but by no means least, are the beautifully detailed, zen pieces of art by Lie Sang Bong. “Dol Dam” are traditional Korean walls, built with stones of different sizes and shapes. Here Lie Sang interprets “Dol Dam” “shaped by human intervention” in a meditative and artful way. The “stones” on these clothes are indeed varied – sometimes manifesting in a sheer upon sheer pattern, sometimes as lightly padded embellishments and sometimes, as images woven into the fiber. It’s an architectural assemblage that’s both zen with an edge and sophisticatedly striking.